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Oleg
Cassini
Medal of Honor to Oleg Cassini
Friday, October 6, 2005
(Members Only / Black Tie)
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Mr.
Cassini and one of his beloved miniature horses |
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A
FASHIONABLE LIFE : OLEG CASSINI Born in Paris
after his family fled the Russian Revolution, Oleg Cassini
earned his doctorate in fine arts in Italy, worked for
the Patou fashion house in Paris and in 1933 launched
his own design studio before heading across the Atlantic.
"It was impossible to find a job," Mr. Cassini
says, explaining how he arrived amid the Great Depression.
"You could survive on 15 cents a day, which I did."
He
came to the United States in 1936, moved to Hollywood
where he designed costumes for Twentieth-Century Fox
and other Hollywood studios and stars such as Marilyn
Monroe, Natalie Wood, Grace Kelly, and Gene Tierney
to whom he was once married.
In
1961, he became first lady Jacqueline Kennedy's official
couturier, making the pillbox hat internationally known
and creating the “Camelot” look that became
synonymous with well-crafted style. Mr. Cassini believes
it was such a successful partnership because he understood
both Kennedy's figure and taste. "A designer understands
what she should wear, not what she thinks she should
wear," he says. "I was successful because
I listened." During the thousand days of the Kennedy
administration, Mr. Cassini designed over 300 outfits
for Jackie Kennedy—coats, dresses, evening gowns,
suits, and day wear. He coordinated every aspect of
her wardrobe, from shoes and hats to gloves and handbags.
He
is also known for such looks as the sheath and A-line
dress, the turtleneck for men, and the Nehru jacket.
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Now seemingly unstoppable at 91, in 2004 year Mr. Cassini
unveiled his New Couture Resort Jeans Collection at Lord
& Taylor. The store is planning to honor the 50th
anniversary of Cassini's first window display at its flagship
Fifth Avenue department store. Mr.
Cassini is an avid animal-lover. He shares his Oyster
Bay estate with a menagerie of pets including eighteen
dogs, fifteen cats, thirty goats, six sheep, one half-ton
sow, two Vietnamese potbellied pigs, one donkey, two
parrots, twenty-two full-size horses, and two miniature
horses.
He
has been honored for his development and designs of
"Evolutionary Fur," cruelty-free fur coats
that are fully synthetic but retain the feel, warmth,
and fashion of real fur. The line has provided what
the market needs, a big-name designer to begin using
faux fur instead of animal pelts. Cassini realized the
importance of conservation after creating a leopard
coat for Mrs. Kennedy. He later found out that over
250,000 leopards died in the early sixties and swore
to revolutionize fur in fashion.
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At
80, Cassini decided he would try his hand at harness
horse racing—a pastime he gave up only a couple
of years ago over concerns over the dangers. "I
have sections of things in my life to make it more exciting,"
he says. Pointing to a photograph in his office of himself
in his color-coordinated jockey's uniform he says inspired
his designs at the time, Cassini adds, "I got some
very nice sportswear out of it."
Click
here
to see some of Mr. Cassini’s designs for Jacqueline
Kennedy in the Metropolitan Museums of Art’s online
exhibition “Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House
Years—Selections from the John F. Kennedy Library
and Museum”
Click
below to read New York Magazine’s 2005 “The
Look Book” column with Mr. Cassini
http://newyorkmetro.com/nymetro/shopping/fashion/columns/look/10767/
Click
below to see photos of the 1974 “Cassini”
Edition Matador, a car which Mr. Cassini designed for
AMC.
http://www.arcticboy.com/Pages/arcticboysmatador4.html
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Mr.
Cassini still active at 91
The
Oleg Cassini medallion on the front fender of the AMC
Matador |
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